Heritage Apple Varieties Making a Comeback in Craft Cider
Beneath gnarled branches in forgotten orchards, a quiet revolution is taking place. Cider makers across North America are rediscovering and rescuing heritage apple varieties—once on the brink of extinction—and transforming them into ciders of remarkable complexity and character.
Beyond Dessert Apples
The modern grocery store apple selection—dominated by varieties like Honeycrisp, Gala, and Fuji—represents just a tiny fraction of the thousands of apple varieties that once flourished across America. These commercial favorites were selected for sweetness, appearance, and shelf stability rather than the complex flavors ideal for fermentation.
“Most people don’t realize that traditional cider apples taste nothing like eating apples,” explains Eleanor Léger of Eden Ciders in Vermont. “They’re often bitter, tannic, and astringent—qualities that translate into fantastic complexity once fermented.”
Saving Varieties from Extinction
The 20th century saw a dramatic consolidation in apple cultivation, with commercial orchards focusing on just a handful of varieties. Thousands of regional heirloom varieties—many specifically developed for cider making over centuries—were abandoned and nearly lost forever.
Preservation organizations like the Temperate Orchard Conservancy in Oregon have worked to identify and graft these threatened varieties. Meanwhile, forward-thinking cider makers have partnered with these groups to reestablish commercial plantings of these heritage varieties.
“We’ve planted over 30 varieties that were nearly extinct,” says Marcus Wilson of Lost Orchard Cider in the Finger Lakes region. “Some of these trees hadn’t been commercially grown in North America for over a century.”
The Role of Bittersweets and Bittersharps
Among the most prized rediscoveries are the “bittersweet” and “bittersharp” apple varieties—classifications virtually unknown to most consumers but essential to traditional cider making.
Varieties like Kingston Black, Dabinett, and Ashmead’s Kernel contain high levels of tannins that provide structure and aging potential similar to red wine. When blended skillfully, these apples create ciders with remarkable depth that can age for years or even decades.
Regional Identity and Terroir
As these heritage varieties return to orchards across North America, distinct regional cider styles are emerging. The maritime climate of the Pacific Northwest yields different characteristics in the same apple variety compared to the cold winters and hot summers of the Northeast or the long growing season of Virginia.
“We’re seeing the development of regional cider identities similar to wine regions,” notes pomologist and cider consultant Brighid O’Keefe. “The Hudson Valley is becoming known for its mineral, structured ciders, while the Pacific Northwest is developing a reputation for bright, fruit-forward expressions.”
Elevating Cider’s Culinary Status
The renaissance of heritage apples has coincided with cider’s reemergence as a sophisticated beverage worthy of the same respect as wine. High-end restaurants increasingly feature cider pairings, with sommeliers noting its food-friendly acidity and lower alcohol content compared to most wines.
“A well-crafted cider from heritage varieties has the complexity to stand alongside fine wine,” says sommelier Thomas Park of Boston’s Orchard Table restaurant. “The range of flavors—from delicate floral notes to deep earthy tannins—offers incredible versatility with food.”
Looking Forward
As consumer interest in craft cider continues to grow, more orchardists are willing to take the risk of planting these specialty varieties—despite the higher costs and longer wait for returns compared to dessert apple orchards.
For those interested in exploring heritage apple ciders, seek out producers who specifically mention the apple varieties used in their products and look for terms like “heirloom,” “heritage,” or “traditional” on labels. The extra cost of these bottles reflects not just a premium product but an investment in agricultural diversity and the continuation of a nearly lost tradition.